Form and function come together in beautiful harmony when it comes to the Vietnamese non la, or “leaf hat”.
A simple, conical hat originating in Asia – most notably in the countries of Vietnam, China and Japan – the distinctive, multi-functional head piece has become a national symbol representing the hard-working spirit of Vietnam and its people. The non la is also a symbol of Vietnamese femininity and adds an air of mystery and attractiveness to young women whose long, dark hair flows out from under the brim.
Many a poet and composer have been inspired by the simple yet intriguingly beautiful and unique design of the non la. The time-honored conical hat is fashioned out of bamboo, coconut leaves or buong (a type of palm leaf).
Fresh leaves are picked when they are young and soft, and then exposed to the night-time dew to further tenderize them.
When they are soft enough to flatten, they are ironed with hot cast-iron sheets which allow the leaves to retain their natural color and keep from fading.
The leaves are then hand-sewn into a frame of 16 to 18 rims made from a special type of bamboo.
Artisans generally weave 10 leaves into one strand, affix them to the top of the frame and begin to arrange other layers of leaves by sewing them into the rims with silk gut – a natural material derived from the gut of a silkworm that has many of the same properties as plastic.
Finally, the hat is trimmed and coated with dau bong (attar oil) to keep it clean, glistening and waterproof.
A non la can serve as a very useful device for both men and women alike. The hats protect equally against the blistering tropical sun and heavy torrential rains.
They can even be used to carry water, fruit and other items and farmers the conical hats as buckets during the hot, dry season to carry vegetables from their farms.
Some of the most unique, aesthetic conical hats come from the Chuong Village in Chuong My District approximately 30 kilometers from Hanoi.
Chuong Village hats have been renowned for centuries thanks to their high quality. Villagers hold regular open markets on the 4th, 10th, 14th, 20th, 24th and 30th day of each month where non la is the only item up for sale.
The manufacturing of non bai tho (conical hats with poems or images inscribed on the inner surface) is unique to craft villages such as Phu Cam, Ben Ngu and An Hoa in the former imperial capital of Hue.
Appearing the same as any non la from the outside, the non bai tho is transparent enough to reveal the otherwise hidden writing when lit from behind by the sun or a lamp.
These specialty hats can also be adorned with pictures of well-known places in Hue and traditional designs like pagodas, birds and flowers.
They are especially popular with tourists and overseas Vietnamese returning home for a visit.
And while some of the practicality of the hats may have waned in modern, urban centers, the non la shows no signs of slowing in popularity.
Locals and tourists alike seem as enamored as ever with the hats, whether for functional purposes or purely as an aesthetic accessory.
Non la hats sell in street markets for just VND20,000 – 30,000, though prices tend to rise in souvenir gift shops.
Organized tours are also offered for those wanting to see a non la-making demonstration in local villages in Hue, Hoi An, Quang Nam or Quang Binh.